The Spring/Summer 2027 season of Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off on August 3, marking the 20th anniversary of CPHFW altogether. As always, the season promised landmark shows from Copenhagen’s best designers, along with presentations from emerging brands and lively events all over the city. For SS27, the coveted International Guest Slot was filled by New York’s Collina Strada, marking the penultimate show on the final day of the season.
Elsewhere, SS27 saw the return of names like OpéraSPORT, Marimekko and Stine Goya, along with fan favorites like Henrik Vibskov, Baum und Pferdgarten and the Swedish School of Textiles.
Read on for some of our favorite shows of the week.
OpéraSPORT
OpéraSPORT‘s SS27 collection, titled “Growth,” took inspiration from the garden of Carl Jacobsen, aka the founder of Carlsberg and a known art collector and philanthropist. Reimagining the brand’s signature silhouettes and techniques through the lens of growth and transformation, the collection featured shirred fabrics, the return of OpéraSPORT swimwear and oversized blooms as accessories. Drawing on the history of the show’s garden location, the collection explored poignant themes of renewal and continuity, through soft tailoring, textured layers and sculptural styling,
Anne Sofie Madsen
Anne Sofie Madsen SS27 stayed true to the brand’s chic persona, but along with sculpted tulle and tailored trousers sat a brand new collaboration with Nike. Taking classic Nike T-shirts and reconstructing them through transparent layering and reworking, the collection also debuted transformed T-shirt dresses, emblazoned with the words “The New Desire // The Future Feels Good on You.” Along with the apparel, the showcase marked the women’s runway debut of Nike’s First Sight Shadow silhouette.
The Royal Danish Academy
This season, 14 MA students from The Royal Danish Academy presented their latest collections, exploring themes of community, challenge and generational togetherness. Titled “Cut From Many Cloths,” the presentation brought together young designers from the likes of Myanmar, Germany, Finland, Denmark and China, blending global perspectives with Scandinavian design principles.
Paolina Russo
Paolina Russo‘s SS27 showcase was one of pure joy. Taking place just next to a skate park, the show’s location set the tone for what was to come. Kicking things off with not one, but two performances, Paolina Russo enlisted the star power of Danish group Hal0plus and New York’s Grace Ives to soundtrack the show. Real skateboarders injected a little extra motion into the finale, which saw the designers parade an eclectic mix of colorful looks down an expressive runway.
Henrik Vibskov
Henrik Vibskov‘s shows always come with a welcome slice of performance art, and SS27 was no exception to this rule. Though it isn’t always (immediately) clear how these thought-out introductions correlate to the season’s collection, it is always equal parts entertaining and intriguing. The collection itself began with simple prints and checks, interspersed with relaxed tailoring and silk scarves, before erupting into experimental cut-out coats, shrivelled tops and ruching, offering an impressive blend of textile manipulation and texture.
SSON Studios
SSON Studios was perhaps one of the most underrated showcases of the season. Opting for a presentation format over a traditional runway show, the experience allowed a variation of audiences to witness the beach-themed collection. At first, the simple, swim-inspired pieces like wet-look bikini T-shirts, bermuda shorts and minidresses didn’t do much to stand out, and then things changed. Inflatable rings were disguised as mini-skirts, shoulder bags strewn together to make clothing and the piece de resistance: a briefcase bag repurposed into a top. Playing with the idea of wearable to a somewhat extreme level, the collection put SSON right at the top of our favorite shows list.
Baum und Pferdgarten
This season, Baum und Pferdgarten examined the somewhat dying trend of balletcore and instead asked, what happens after the rehearsal? Enamored with the concept of transition, the collection didn’t just look at ballerinas doing ballet; it looked at how they commute, how they get dressed and ultimately, how they live their lives. Using ballet sneakers as accessories, the collection layered classic leg warmers and pastel pink tones with dressier clothing, pairing ruffled tutu-like skirts with trousers, jackets and shorts and offering a midpoint between the worlds of rehearsal and daily life.
Nicklas Skovgaard
Nicklas Skovgaard SS27 took inspiration from classic cars and retro styling. Transporting guests back in time, the showcase saw models emerge one by one from the cars, dressed in layers of gingham, peplum silhouettes and swishy skirts. Pairing the old-school looks with oversized glasses, extra-oversized bags and HOFF footwear, the vibrant showcase was all things nostalgic, playful and fun.
Swedish School of Textiles
Student shows are always a major highlight of any fashion week season, and this time, the Swedish School of Textiles was the standout. Presenting over 20 student collections, the showcase was a masterclass in experimentation, innovation, and honestly? Fun. It felt like the kind of show where literally anything goes, and it did. From embroidered LIDL bags and tops made of hair to LED light dresses and coats made of tights, each look was wilder than the last.
Collina Strada
Taking this season’s International Guest Slot, Collina Strada presented an SS27 collection against a dramatic backdrop of violinists and Danish wind. Seemingly debuting a bridal capsule, the collection paired ruffles and metallics with asymmetric silhouettes, reams of ruched fabric and Elizabethan-style beauty looks.
